Organic UV filters, often called “chemical” filters, are dissolved in the sunscreen and absorb UV radiation. Mineral filters are fine pigments of zinc oxide or titanium dioxide; they too absorb most of the UV radiation and reflect only a small part of it. Both groups are approved in the EU, each filter with a maximum concentration. How well a sunscreen protects you depends on its tested SPF, its UVA protection and how much of it you apply.
How organic and mineral UV filters work
Germany's Federal Office for Radiation Protection (BfS) distinguishes between soluble and insoluble UV filters. The soluble ones, also called chemical or organic filters, absorb UV radiation and release the energy as heat. The insoluble ones, also called physical or mineral filters, are pigments such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide; they absorb, scatter and reflect UV radiation (BfS 2026).
The names are easy to misread. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are chemical substances too, just inorganic ones. And “physical” suggests a mirror on the skin. In one set of measurements, however, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide reflected on average only 4 to 5 % of the radiation in the UV range; the rest of their protection comes from absorbing it (Cole et al. 2016). Visible light, on the other hand, is largely reflected by the same pigments, up to 60 %. That is where the pale film that mineral sunscreen can leave behind comes from. Why zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are often combined is explained on the page Zinc oxide or titanium dioxide: which protects against what?
What the EU allows: approval, nano and the SCCS
In the EU, sunscreens may only contain UV filters listed in Annex VI of the Cosmetics Regulation, each with a maximum concentration and conditions of use. The list contains just under 30 substances; only titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are mineral, each permitted up to 25 % (Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009). A filter is only added once the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has confirmed that it is safe to use (BfS 2026).
Nano or non-nano: A nanomaterial is an insoluble or biopersistent, intentionally manufactured material with dimensions between 1 and 100 nanometres. In the ingredient list it must be followed by “(nano)”, for example “Zinc Oxide (nano)”. Both mineral filters are also approved in nano form, with defined properties and not for applications in which they could be inhaled; for zinc oxide this restriction also applies to the regular form (Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, Articles 2 and 19, Annex VI). More on this: Nano or non-nano?
In 2019 the European Commission called for data on several UV filters because of concerns about possible effects on the hormone system. The SCCS then reassessed the substances, and the EU adjusted the rules:
| Filter (INCI) | SCCS conclusion | What the EU did |
|---|---|---|
| Benzophenone-3 (oxybenzone) | safe up to 6 % in face, hand and lip products, up to 2.2 % in body creams and sprays | set these maximum levels, plus the label “Contains Benzophenone-3” |
| Octocrylene | safe up to 10 %, up to 9 % in aerosol sprays | set these maximum levels; the breakdown product benzophenone may only be present in traces |
| 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor (4-MBC) | no conclusion on safety possible; sufficient evidence of an effect on the hormone system; no safe maximum level could be derived | removed from the list: no new products placed on the market since 1 May 2025, none on sale since 1 May 2026 |
Sources for the table: Regulations (EU) 2022/1176 and (EU) 2024/996. According to the German Federal Institute for Risk Assessment, as quoted by the BfS, no adverse health effects are to be expected from sunscreens available in the EU based on current scientific knowledge (BfS 2026).
Pros and cons compared
| Feature | Organic filters | Mineral filters |
|---|---|---|
| Examples in the INCI | Octocrylene, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Triazone | Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide |
| Approved substances (EU) | all the others, a good two dozen | two |
| Look on the skin | usually transparent | may leave a pale film; tinted versions are less noticeable |
| Texture | thin lotions, gels and sprays possible | creamier or solid, needs to be spread thoroughly |
| Water resistance | depends on the formula, tested on the finished product | the same |
| Sprays | possible | nano forms and zinc oxide not in applications where they could be inhaled |
The main argument for organic filters is how they feel: transparent, light textures. Mineral pigments do not break down during storage; what limits the shelf life of a mineral sunscreen are its oils and waxes (Can I still use last year's sunscreen?). The downsides of mineral sunscreen are part of an honest picture: it can leave a white cast, it is thicker, with sticks it is easy to apply too little, the fresh film can rub off on clothing, and in the evening it needs thorough cleansing (How do I wash off mineral sunscreen?).
Our Solid Sunscreen SPF50 (40 g, €17.90) is a mineral stick made of shea butter, a plant-based fatty acid blend, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, organic beeswax and silica; according to the ingredient list, both filters are non-nano. According to the product page it has been tested to ISO 24444 and ISO 24443 and is labelled water resistant. The same formula is available as the Solid Sunscreen SPF50 Mini (20 g, €9.90), and tinted as Solid Sunscreen SPF50 Mini in LIGHT SAND and OCEAN BLUE (20 g, €9.90 each). More about the two filters: Zinc oxide and Titanium dioxide.
Applying it properly: amount, timing, reapplying
The SPF only applies to the test amount of 2 mg per square centimetre of skin. For an average adult body, the European Commission puts this at about six teaspoons or 36 grams; applying half that amount can reduce the protection by two thirds (Recommendation 2006/647/EC). Tips for sticks: How much solid sunscreen do I need?
- In good time: apply 20 to 30 minutes before going out in the sun, whichever filter you use (BfS 2026).
- High protection: at least SPF 30; by the water, on snow, at high altitude and in very sunny regions SPF 50+ (BfS 2026).
- Reapply: several times a day, especially after sweating, swimming and towelling (Recommendation 2006/647/EC). This maintains the protection but does not extend it (BfS 2026).
- Not just cream: no sunscreen filters out all UV radiation. Shade, clothing and sunglasses are part of it; babies and young children should be kept out of direct sunlight (Recommendation 2006/647/EC).
What SPF, the UVA circle and “water resistant” mean is explained on the page SPF, UVA and water resistance.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between chemical and physical sunscreen?
Chemical, more precisely organic, filters are dissolved in the cream and convert UV radiation into heat. Physical, more precisely mineral, filters are pigments that also mostly absorb UV radiation; what they reflect is mainly visible light.
Are chemical UV filters bad for your health?
In the EU, only filters assessed by the SCCS are allowed, each with a maximum concentration. Where new data raised questions, the EU has acted: benzophenone-3 and octocrylene now have maximum levels, and 4-MBC is no longer allowed.
What are the downsides of mineral sunscreen?
It can leave a pale film, is thicker to spread and can rub off on clothing. Tinted versions are less noticeable.
Does mineral sunscreen work straight away?
The BfS advises applying any sunscreen 20 to 30 minutes before going out in the sun. That applies to mineral filters too.
How can I tell whether a sunscreen contains nanoparticles?
From the ingredient list: nanomaterials must be followed by “(nano)”, for example “Titanium Dioxide (nano)”.
Sources
- European Parliament and Council (2009): Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, Articles 2 and 19 and Annex VI (list of UV filters allowed), consolidated version of 18 May 2026. eur-lex.europa.eu
- European Commission (2022): Commission Regulation (EU) 2022/1176 of 7 July 2022 amending Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 as regards the use of certain UV filters in cosmetic products. OJ L 183, 8.7.2022, p. 51. eur-lex.europa.eu
- European Commission (2024): Commission Regulation (EU) 2024/996 of 3 April 2024 amending Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 as regards the use of Vitamin A, Alpha-Arbutin and Arbutin and certain substances with potential endocrine disrupting properties in cosmetic products. OJ L, 2024/996, 4.4.2024. eur-lex.europa.eu
- European Commission (2006): Commission Recommendation 2006/647/EC of 22 September 2006 on the efficacy of sunscreen products and the claims made relating thereto. OJ L 265: 39–43. eur-lex.europa.eu
- Cole C, Shyr T, Ou-Yang H (2016): Metal oxide sunscreens protect skin by absorption, not by reflection or scattering. Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine 32(1): 5–10. doi:10.1111/phpp.12214
- Bundesamt für Strahlenschutz (BfS, German Federal Office for Radiation Protection): UV-Schutz durch Sonnencreme (in German). Last updated 4 August 2026. bfs.de
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