Shea butter for dry skin – and what ‘comedogenic’ means

Protective film

Leaves a film of fat on the skin that slows evaporation and helps protect it from drying out.

Minor components

Besides fatty acids, shea butter contains triterpene alcohols, tocopherols and sterols; how much depends on its origin.

Softens with skin warmth

Gradually softens on the skin and keeps dry areas supple.

Profile

INCI Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Plant Vitellaria paradoxa (shea tree)
Sourced from Nuts / seeds
Texture Solid, melts on skin contact
Melting range 24–38 °C
Main fatty acids Stearic acid 28–56%, oleic acid 34–61% (Akihisa et al. 2010)
Comedogenicity No reliable value; tables are based on the rabbit ear test
Smell Nutty, slightly smoky
Minor components Triterpene alcohols, tocopherols, sterols
Shelf life (pure) 12–24 months
The active in detail

A rich care butter from Africa

Shea butter is obtained from the seed kernels of the shea tree (Vitellaria paradoxa). It has a firm, creamy texture, softens with skin warmth and consists mainly of stearic and oleic acid, along with triterpene alcohols and tocopherols (vitamin E). In solid creams, balms and lip care, it adds body and makes wax-and-oil blends smoother.

Skin type check

How does shea butter feel on different skin types?

Shea butter is a solid plant butter. How it feels depends on your skin type, the amount and where you apply it.

D
Dry skin Top
Leaves a film of fat that slows evaporation and keeps rough areas supple.
N
Normal skin Top
Applied thinly, it sinks in after a few minutes and leaves a light film.
M
Mature skin Top
Mature skin is often drier; the butter keeps it supple and helps protect it from drying out.
C
Combination skin Mit Bedacht
On dry patches, go for it – on the T-zone, use it more sparingly.
O
Oily skin Mit Bedacht
On oily skin, the film may look shiny; use a little, mainly on dry areas.
B
Blemished skin Mit Bedacht
Whether shea butter promotes blackheads can’t be said in general. Try it on a small area first.
Science & care

How does shea butter work on the skin?

Three mechanisms that make shea butter a classic care ingredient.

01

Film of fat

As a fat, shea butter settles on the stratum corneum; the film slows the evaporation of water from the skin.

02

Triterpenes

Triterpene alcohols such as lupeol and α-amyrin make up 22–72% of the unsaponifiable fraction (Akihisa et al. 2010); their effect on the skin has been little studied.

03

Tocopherols

Tocopherols (vitamin E) protect the butter’s unsaturated fatty acids from oxidation and so help it keep longer.

Shea butter · Butyrospermum Parkii Butter · Plant butter
Use cases

What can you use shea butter for?

Facial care

As night care or a booster for dry skin

Lip care

Pure or in sticks for chapped lips

Hand cream

Rich care for stressed hands

Foot care

For cracked heels and hard calluses

Elbows & knees

For rough, dry areas on the body

Body care

In the Solid Body Butter with cocoa butter and beeswax

Hair ends

Smooths dry, frizzy ends

Sun protection

The first ingredient in our Solid Sunscreen SPF50

Terms

Glossary

INCI
International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients – the official name for cosmetic ingredients on every package.
Comedogenic
Can promote blackheads (comedones). The well-known number tables come from rabbit ear tests, and the rabbit ear reacts more strongly than human skin (Mills & Kligman 1982); they say little about any one person.
Unsaponifiable fraction
Substances in a fat that do not turn into soap during saponification; 2–12% in shea butter (Akihisa et al. 2010).
TEWL
Transepidermal water loss – how much moisture evaporates through the skin. A film of fat can reduce it.
Triterpenes
Secondary plant compounds (e.g. lupeol) that occur naturally in shea butter.
Unrefined
Shea butter that has not been refined – it keeps its colour, scent and minor components.

Magazine

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