Knowledge 7 min read forpeople skincare

Cosmetics Shelf Life and the PAO Symbol

In short

In the EU, the shelf life of cosmetics is shown either by a date of minimum durability or by the PAO symbol with the open jar. A date of minimum durability is mandatory if a product lasts 30 months or less. If it lasts longer, the open jar with a number such as "12 M" usually appears instead: that is how many months you can safely use the product after opening. Regardless of either label: if a product smells, looks or feels different from usual, you should stop using it.

Contents
Date of minimum durability and PAO: the rulesWhy cosmetics age faster after openingHow to recognise cosmetics that have gone offHow to store cosmetics properlyFrequently asked questionsAt forpeopleSources

Date of minimum durability and PAO: the rules

Labelling is governed by Article 19 of the EU Cosmetics Regulation (Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009). The date of minimum durability is the date until which a cosmetic product, stored properly, continues to fulfil its original function and remains safe. It is preceded by an hourglass symbol or the words "best used before the end of". The date consists of month and year, or day, month and year. If necessary, the manufacturer adds how the product must be stored for the date to apply.

For products with a minimum durability of more than 30 months, the date is not mandatory. Instead, the manufacturer states how long the product can be used safely after opening. This is shown by the symbol of an open cream jar followed by a period in months and/or years. The information is called "period after opening", or PAO for short. It is not required if the concept of durability after opening is not relevant for a product (Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, Art. 19(1)(c) and Annex VII).

Date of minimum durabilityPAO symbol (open jar)
When mandatory?for a minimum durability of 30 months or lessfor a minimum durability of more than 30 months, unless not relevant
Symbolhourglass or "best used before the end of"open jar
Informationmonth and year, or day, month and yeara period, for example "6 M" or "12 M"
Reference pointthe product when stored properlyperiod from first opening
What you can docheck the date before buyingnote the opening date, for example with a pen on the base

Why cosmetics age faster after opening

As long as a product is closed, it is largely protected from outside influences. Opening it changes three things:

  • Microbes get in: Every time you dip into the jar, microorganisms from your fingers and the air get into the product. A study of 91 cosmetic products in three states, unopened, in use and at the end of use, found contaminated products to be relatively uncommon, but detected bacteria in some of the bath foams, shampoos and liquid soaps (Campana et al. 2006). How well packaging protects against this can be measured with a standardised method and classified into protection grades (Catovic et al. 2020).
  • Oxygen reacts: Plant oils can oxidise over time, and the smell then turns rancid. Essential oils change too; heat, light and oxygen in particular affect their composition (Turek and Stintzing 2013).
  • Water evaporates or gets in: Creams can dry out, and solid products can soften through moisture from outside.

In water-based products, a preservation system is meant to stop microbes that get in from multiplying. How this works, and why water-free products usually do without a preservative, is explained on the page Preservation and water in cosmetics.

How to recognise cosmetics that have gone off

The number on the jar is a guideline for normal conditions. Your senses often tell you more reliably whether a product is still fine:

SignWhat may be behind it
Rancid, sour or musty smelloxidation of oils or microbial spoilage
Clearly changed colouroxidation or the effect of light
Spots, films or dots on the surfacepossible mould
Cream or lotion separates into water and oilthe emulsion has become unstable
Packaging bulges, product foams or gives off gaspossible fermentation by microbes
Grainy or lumpy texturetemperature fluctuations or spoilage

If any of these apply, you should stop using the product, even if the date or PAO has not yet been reached. For solid creams and balms, a rancid smell is the clearest sign.

How to store cosmetics properly

  • Cool, dry and dark: Heat and light speed up changes. A bathroom shelf directly above the radiator or a sunny windowsill are poor places.
  • Always close tightly: This keeps less oxygen in contact with the product and less dirt gets in.
  • Take it out with clean, dry fingers: Or with a small spatula. Wet fingers bring water into water-free products.
  • Do not share, do not put back: Product you have taken out does not go back into the jar.
  • Keep soaps dry: Store solid soap on a dish that lets water drain away. This keeps it firmer and makes it last longer.
  • Think about heat in summer: Solid cosmetics can soften in the heat. Tips are on the page Storing solid cosmetics in summer.

Frequently asked questions

Can I still use cosmetics after the PAO has passed?
With the PAO, the manufacturer states how long the product can be used safely after opening. Once that period has passed, safety is no longer covered by this information. The safest option is to replace the product then, especially products for the eye area.

How long do unopened cosmetics last?
If a correctly labelled product does not carry a date of minimum durability, its minimum durability is more than 30 months. This assumes proper storage.

Do water-free cosmetics last longer?
Microbiologically they are usually less susceptible because they lack water. The oils in them can still oxidise, though. So the same applies here: store cool and dark and check the smell. More on the topic on Water-free cosmetics.

What does the symbol with a hand and a book mean?
It refers to information on an enclosed leaflet or tag, for example when the ingredient list does not fit on a small product. How to read the list is explained on the page How to read an INCI list.

At forpeople

For the shelf life of a forpeople product, the information on its packaging is what counts. The safety notes in the shop recommend storing the products cool and dry and protecting them from direct sunlight.

The solid creams such as the Solid Hand Cream - Beeswax or the Solid Body Butter - Beeswax & Aloe Vera are water-free; with them, the smell is a particularly good indicator. If you want to keep using the tin, you can refill it with a refill such as the Solid Hand Cream Refill - Beeswax; how this works is explained on the page Refillable hand cream. Oils with essential oils such as the Body Oil - Lemongrass should be closed tightly after use. The Aloe Vera Serum 99.6% is water-based and contains preservatives. For solid soaps, there is the Aluminium Soap Tin with Drainage Grid and the Luffa Soap Dish – Natural, on which the soap can dry.

Read more: Essential oils and fragrance allergens · Emulsifiers in cosmetics · Solid cream or tube

Sources

  1. Verordnung (EG) Nr. 1223/2009 des Europäischen Parlaments und des Rates vom 30. November 2009 über kosmetische Mittel, Art. 19 Abs. 1 Buchst. c und Anhang VII. ABl. L 342 vom 22.12.2009, S. 59. eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2009/1223/oj
  2. Campana R, Scesa C, Patrone V et al. (2006): Microbiological study of cosmetic products during their use by consumers: health risk and efficacy of preservative systems. Lett Appl Microbiol 43(3): 301–306. doi:10.1111/j.1472-765X.2006.01952.x
  3. Catovic C, Martin S, Desaint S et al. (2020): Development of a standardized method to evaluate the protective efficiency of cosmetic packaging against microbial contamination. AMB Express 10(1): 81. doi:10.1186/s13568-020-01016-4
  4. Turek C, Stintzing FC (2013): Stability of Essential Oils: A Review. Compr Rev Food Sci Food Saf 12(1): 40–53. doi:10.1111/1541-4337.12006

Products in this guide

Solid Hand Cream - Beeswax Solid Hand Cream - Beeswax €9,90 View Solid Body Butter - Beeswax & Aloe Vera Solid Body Butter - Beeswax & Aloe Vera €9,90 View Solid Hand Cream Refill - Beeswax Solid Hand Cream Refill - Beeswax €7,90 View Body Oil - Lemongrass Body Oil - Lemongrass €16,90 View Aloe Vera Serum 99.6% Aloe Vera Serum 99.6% €9,90 View Aluminium Soap Tin with Drainage Grid Aluminium Soap Tin with Drainage Grid €8,90 View Luffa Soap Dish – Natural Luffa Soap Dish – Natural €3,90 View

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